tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7348941549898348593.post-69908226812656707722008-04-19T06:30:00.002-06:002008-04-19T06:33:39.202-06:002008-04-19T06:33:39.202-06:00Re-posted from "Ragnar", SCI<br /><br />There are a few basic things that you need to do. First, pull out the axles, take polishing compound and a piece of hard finished card stock, put a dab of the polishing compound on the axle where it goes through the bushings, wrap the cardstock around it, then turn it slowly in a power tool such as a Dremel with adjustable speed to polish the axle. Then make sure you have all the polishing compound off the axle, reassemble the axle and bushings, use spacers to get your gear mesh at this point, then glue both wheels back onto the axle tight. Or, better yet, if the rules allow, go to a hardened axle, race bushings, set screw gear, and set screw wheels (still use spacers to get your side to side movement of your axle down to a minimum). Then set your gear mesh by moving the gear using the set screw. You want your gear flash to be less than 3/32" at the wheel. I always like to use something like baking soda, toothpaste, or something of the sort to polish the gears and seat them. Make sure you clean all of this compound off of the gears and then re-oil them. Make sure you glue the motor, and all bushings, into the chassis with either contact glue or a small dab of hot glue (Shoo Goo works well). Make sure you true wheels with the tires off and remove all flashing, then true the tires and make sure you gently round the shoulders of the tires where it meets the tread. Of course, you should have already broken in your motor by free-running it at 3V. After you've done these things, then you can worry about magnets or, if you're running non-magnet, placing lead. I really don't like to run silicones, there are some really good rubber tires available, the Slot.it P3s, NSR super grips and ultra grips, and others.Steve Arendshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16106922348911643306noreply@blogger.com0